Samuel Sewall, distinguished Alumnus (1696) of Harvard College and citizen of Boston, went on a picnic expedition to Hog Island on October 1, 1697. There he dined on apple pie. He wrote in his diary, "Had first Butter, Honey, Curds and Cream. For Dinner, very good Rost Lamb, Turkey, Fowls, Applepy."
That is the first, but hardly the last, American mention of a dish whose patriotic symbolism is expressed in a 1984 book by Susan Purdy, As Easy as Pie: "This is It!--what our country and flag are as American as. Since the earliest colonial days, apple pies have been enjoyed in America for breakfast, for an entrée, and for dessert. Colonists wrote home about them and foreign visitors noted apple pie as one of our first culinary specialties."
We cannot claim to have invented the apple pie, just to have perfected it. As long ago as 1590, the English poet Robert Greene wrote in his Arcadia, "Thy breath is like the steame of apple-pyes." But Noah Webster's American dictionary of 1828 suggests a difference between British and American versions, the American having more crust: "a pie made of apples stewed or baked, inclosed in paste, or covered with paste, as in England." In England nowadays the term is more commonly apple tart.
American versions of apple pie are almost as many as the varieties of apples. There is, for example, apple cobbler (1859) with thick dough, the deep-dish apple dowdy or pandowdy (1880), apple crisp (1932) with a crumbly crust, and apple slump (1831), which, according to an 1848 writer, is "made by placing raised bread or dough around the sides of an iron pot, which is then filled with apples and sweetened with molasses."
Apple pie figures in our figurative language, too, as in the expressions simple as apple pie (since everyone supposedly knows how to make apple pie) and, though not an Americanism, apple-pie order (1780). But it was only in the twentieth century, apparently in the 1960s, that we began to be "as American as apple pie."