● "Why is my 5 month old German Shepherd biting worse??"
Because you haven't a clue about how to raise & train a puppy.
You didn't even think to tell us how old he was when you got him, which training club you have been in since he reached 18-to-22 weeks old. So I was forced to HOPE that your earlier questions would provide information.They show that you STARTED :
😝1: with a pup from a WRONG SOURCE (if you had got it from a reputable breeder or a genuine rescue group, you would have asked THEM your questions).
😝2: with a WRONG pup - your 2 months ago question was "How can I get my puppy to pee outside if hes scared?" - which COULD mean that he was 3 months old before you got him. Pups should be rehomed at 7-through-9-weeks-old while they are in the "calm, confident & curious" stage. NEVER re-home a pup while it is in the 13-through-17-weeks-old "need security" period. Plus GSDs are NOT ALLOWED TO BE SCARED; and
😝3: you haven't even bothered to HOUSE-train him yet, nor worked out how to get him to Come when called! Instead, 7 weeks later (= last week), you asked "Why does my dog run away from me when I try to get the leash on him?" AND chose totally the wrong answer to reward with BA points. There were just TWO worthwhile answers to that question.
And NOW you realise:
● "My puppy lunges at me and bites hard if I’ve told him no or if I lay back on the couch or if I sit on his level. I’ve tried the yelp which seems to make things worse he bites even harder and I’ve tried to get up and ignore him but he doesn’t seem to care and when he keeps lunging at me I put him on his back and try to get him to calm down, once he calms down I let him up but then again he attacks me."
Nowhere do you say anything USEFUL there. Indeed, the so-called "alpha roll" you describe is STUPID! Only an alpha pooch should use that... and should be prepared to fight to the death if it doesn't work.
● "It’s very frustrating and I’m not sure what else I can do because it doesn’t seem like he’s learning,"
Oh, he's LEARNING - but he sees no reason to learn what YOU want him to do. When you squeal, that is pleasing to puppy ears. When you ignore him and try to move away, you delightfully present 2 moving-away Achilles tendons for him to grab - canids are predators "wired" to attack from behind, and to hamstring larger prey that is fleeing. So he is learning that HE is the one in control, not YOU.
● "the biting never stops unless there’s a toy in his mouth."
At LAST - you've noticed something relevant.
💥 So how long does a toy LAST before it bores him? Children get involved with imagining that their toys are real cars, real children, etc. But DOGS need the toy to keep moving, to make it interesting. And YOU are the one that should be controlling its movements.
💀 NOWHERE have you mentioned any REWARDS that you use. Instant high-pitched PRAISE the SECOND he does something desirable is essential. A deep slow throat-growl is required when the dog's action is disapproved of.
I'm male, and my litters have stopped trying to grab me by 6 weeks old - however, they remain perfectly happy to grip a couple of my fingers so that I can control their speed & direction for a friend to see and give me their opinion of that wee pup's firmness & gait.
👍🏻 You should immediately follow "good" behaviours with rewards - RUBS between the front legs or on the croup or the base of the ears (just as different humans have different preferences, so do dogs. LEARN your dog's preferences); games such as ball-fetch or tug-o'-war; tidbits such as pea-sized bits of hard cheese, baked liver or baked hot-dog. DO NOT STICK TO A SINGLE REWARD - vary them so that the dog knows when praised that he WILL got a reward, but doesn't know which one it will be.
● "I would like to be able to sit with my dog without him deciding to attack me."
Whether that is a REASONABLE desire depends on your idea of "sit with".
💀 You should NOT be sitting down where the dog is to lie/sit/stand. He should NOT be up on any furniture. Superior altitude indicates - to dogs - superiority.
[Lorraine], who works in a Rottweiler rescue group, has given excellent advice.
[CactiJoe]'s "grab their nose" is totally impractical (as is the "hold his muzzle" part of my suggestions in https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index...
, but think about the other parts of my advice there) - at 5 months old a GSD's reactions are FAR too fast for a human to do that without getting fanged. But once they HAVE their grip you usually have a brief moment during which to take advantage of alternative grips.
But, sad to say, I don't believe you will succeed with this dog (probably not with any dog) UNLESS you put the time into getting coached by a competent instructor in a training class, one who can OBSERVE your attempts and your dog's reactions, then start improving whichever of your awareness, body-language, timing, use of the leash, use of praise & rewards, use of voice-tones is most in NEED of improvement that day.
I shudder about how poorly bred I suspect that your pooch is (the one I'm waiting to be old enough to bring home has this oedigree: http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/german_s...
) - but GSDs should always be in the top-10 most-intelligent breeds. Which makes it easy for them to outwit inattentive unthinking humans.
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😛 To discuss GSDs, join some groups such as
by sending an e-mail about yourself to the Subscribe address on that page.
The people in them KNOW about GSDs. Plus you can include actual photos in your posts.
To find other groups or breeds, type the breed-name into the top field of
then choose a couple of groups to Join - use the group's
on its /info page to make sure that it still has members who are ACTIVE.
to your browser, so that you can easily look up all sorts of information about dogs, especially GSDs. It is an "encyclopaedia" group (to which members can ask for new sources to be added), not a discussion group.
King Les The Lofty - first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968