Anonymous
Anonymous asked in Cars & TransportationMaintenance & Repairs · 2 months ago

Any MINI Technicians? ?

I'm replacing the oil pan "gasket" on a 2015 Mini Cooper 1.6. Service data says to use rtv. I have a Felpro gasket. I was gonna just use the gasket because I don't like dealing with rtv if I don't have to, but I know they're prone to leaking so I'm wondering if I should use the gasket with a thin layer of rtv on both sides or just use rtv? Thanks for any help.

Update:

I'm familiar with replacing gaskets. My question is to those who have done it on this engine and can tell me whether just the gasket will do the job or if I should use RTV. Torque spec is 8 ft/lbs for these bolts.

4 Answers

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  • 2 months ago

    On the Mini, Fel-Pro will be a bodge. Even if used with RTP. They make excellent quality gaskets but the Mini sump/oil pan is not designed to use them.

    Make certain that both mating faces are surgically clean and that the sump/oil pan mating surfaces are perfectly flat and true. It’s not at all unusual to have to use a brand new one (and ALWAYS check those as well in case a parts-serving monkey has dropped it). My local independent Mini specialist often skims the faces using their CNC milling machine which allows them to safely re-use slightly distorted sump pans. They also use it for the classic Mini where the differential case has to be perfectly mated to the gearbox. 

    Deviate from the Mini workshop manual and it will soon start to weep oil. Fel-Pro and other gasket materials cause the sump mating surface to distort slightly as it is tightened.

    EDIT: I’ve done this job three times now: first time was my wife’s 2012 Mini. I had no RTV and thought I’d get away with a gasket and my usual sealing compound. Within months I had to do the job again following the advice of my local independent Mini centre who also sold me the RTV and refaced the existing sump as it the mating surfaces had distorted. 

    The third time was on my neighbour’s 2013 Mini. Her sump was too badly distorted after a local repair shop had to remove and refit it to insert a thread repair kit into the drain hole. She took it back for remedial work when the sump started to leak almost immediately and their repair only lasted three weeks. That truly was an awful bodge as it had two gaskets and the bolts clearly had not been torqued correctly. The thread repair insert also came out when I removed the drain plug. That leak was properly repaired using a brand new sump pan and RTV, but the first new sump pan needed to be exchanged before fitting as it wasn’t true, and when the replacement also needed minor re-facing I got my local specialist to do that. They also sold me a new set of bolts and a new sump plug to replace the chewed-up originals.

  • 2 months ago

    I used rtv on my oil pan in my '96 4runner. It's been about a year and no leaks so far. My pan bolts are 10ft lbs. I think. It's been a while.

    I ordered a gasket for it beforehand. It was cork which wasn't specified when I ordered it. Didn't want to mess with cork so I opted for rtv which is what the manufacturer recommended for that if I recall correctly. 

    Valve covers on that same vehicle were those rubber fel pro gaskets. I didn't put any rtv on them, they've been in a little longer than the rtv on my oil pan and they're still doing their job.

    Personally I'd go with one or the other. That's just me though. I don't think it really matters as long as you go through the motions correctly. I could be wrong yeah. Don't know. Just basing it off my own experiences. Good luck!

  • 2 months ago

    If you're using a gasket check out the instructions with the gasket. Generally RTV is only applied to edges where the gasket has a sharp edge by the crankshaft seal or by the engine main seal. Make sure that oil isn't running down the block from higher up. The valve cover gasket and/or the oil pressure warning light sending unit are many times where the leak is coming from.

  • Barry
    Lv 6
    2 months ago

    Firstly make sure both surfaces are 100% clean. Then carefully check the pan face for distortion. Lay it in a flat surface, such as a kitchen countertop, with a torch/flashlight  inside and turn off the lights. If you see a significant amount of light escaping scrap the pan and buy a new one. As overtightening distorts them tighten up evenly to the specified torque.  I personally would use the RTV as it's what is specified. See video from Permatex.

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